Starfish Beach

Teyuné Díaz Díaz

Photos: Panchito González López

I had already heard about the existence of a beach where starfish can be seen from the shore, as many as possible to see in the sky on a clear summer night.

In a somewhat remote location, about 96 kilometers (km) from the city of Pinar del Río and 56 from the tourist town of Viñales, access is via a road that winds through the evergreen landscape. Uphill, a 14-km causeway follows from the municipality of Santa Lucía and finally reaches Cayo Jutía.

Almost the entire journey, I was thinking to myself: Will it be worth it? Will it be that beautiful? More than beautiful, it is unique, so much so that you suddenly forget the fatigue of the trip and having to wake up so early to get there.

Mangroves protecting the coast surround the entrance, and from the bus, the impressive whiteness of the sand can already be seen. Up close, the blue waters stretch as far as the horizon.

“Among Cayo Jutía’s greatest attractions are the four-kilometer stretch of beach with crystal-clear waters and fine sand; the possibility of making excursions to the coral reef and to Cayo Mégano; the tour of the island; and the diving opportunities at the seven existing sites, although the latter is not currently being used for various reasons,” explained Alexander Martínez, director of the Pinar del Río branch of the Marlin Marinas and Nautical Enterprise.

Of course, as Martínez explained as we walked around the area, there is no shortage of beach services, including boat rentals and watercraft rentals such as bicycles, kayaks, and scuba diving, as well as a restaurant offering seafood and fish as the signature dishes.

“One of the captivating landscapes of Cayo Jutía is Playa de las Estrellas (about two nautical miles from the facility), which is accessed by boat. Upon arrival, from the shore, you can observe the starfish on the seabed and walk alongside them.”

Without a doubt, this is one of the most beautiful and pristine beaches in western Cuba. The impressions of the many travelers—both national and international—who are amazed by the landscape are proof of this, he commented.

AND FINALLY… STARFISH BEACH

Wearing life jackets, we boarded a boat with the help of diving instructor and boatman Juan Miguel, a journey in search of the blue-green and transparent waters surrounding Cayo Jutía to confirm those testimonies of starfish at our feet.

During the tour, our guide explained that the starfish remain on the shore due to the accumulation of sediment from the proximity of rivers, which is why the waters are less brackish, cooler, and offer ample opportunities for food.

The sea urchin lives in the area, a species these beautiful, albeit predatory, animals feed on, so much so that they even eat their own species because they are cannibals, explained Juan Miguel, a connoisseur of the area’s natural wealth and a worker with the organization for 16 years.

Until we disembarked, the only sound we heard was the boat’s engine, then the silence of nature and the confirmation of that spectacle of stars resting on the shore just where the water barely rose above the ankle, an image close to the photo that inspired the trip.

We rested and enjoyed the fine sand, certain that we were witnessing a unique landscape, the possibility of walking among the stars while respecting all environmental care measures due to the importance of observing conservation standards, a topic we discussed with the guide, who told us how they enforce compliance with the regulations.

Upon returning, the boat headed toward the mangroves, another of the facility’s excursions that allows you to appreciate the red and black mangroves—some of the most protected in the area. The entire four-mile tour is aboard the boat, and occasionally you can spot crocodiles and dolphins, or toninas, as they are known on the key.

It is also possible to enjoy a full-day trip to El Mégano Beach, a popular excursion for visitors, as it is a small island surrounded by turquoise waters. There, bottom and trail fishing are offered, with gastronomic offers included, and the coral reef to the north.

Juan Miguel is a man of the sea who knows every inch of Cayo Jutía and the western cays, and all the techniques of the sea and its different types of fishing. He has also captained vessels of up to 500 tons. His vocation is nature, and above all, diving, because it is the world of silence.

PROTECTING BEAUTY AND THE ENVIRONMENT

Upon my return, I resumed my conversation with Alexander Martínez, this time about environmental conservation. He mentioned that they are immersed in a cross-sector initiative that includes the Ministries of Science, Technology and the Environment, and Tourism. The Ecovida project and the Marinas Marlin enterprise are working together to address the management and rational use of natural resources in response to the impacts caused by climate change.

Martínez explained that through the Tarea Vida program, they are conducting a load and capacity study in the area, as well as other investigations related to the increase in solid waste and the encroachment of the sea.

As a result of these investigations, measures were initially adopted, including felling casuarina pine trees and later reforesting with endemic species in each location to contribute to the health of the environment.

Another initiative focuses on food sovereignty. To keep the center supplied, they grow what they consume: root vegetables, tomatoes, cucumbers, chard, green beans, lettuce, and even mint to use in cocktails, he explained.

According to Martínez, one of the characteristics of the key’s workers is their sense of belonging and vocation to help. He recalled that during the COVID-19 pandemic, they joined forces with the territorial authorities and brought their food to the isolation centers where the medical staff cared for the sick.

The entire atmosphere surrounding Cayo Jutía is enchanting, including the beauty and uniqueness of its seascapes and coastal landscapes, and undoubtedly the professional, friendly, and cheerful service offered by its workers, all committed to ensuring that visitors will remember their visit to Cayo Jutía and Playa de las Estrellas.