Cayo Guillermo: Treasure island (Part II and final)
Hemingway had a special fascination with the northern keys of Cuba, and Cayo Guillermo in particular
Posted by Sol de Cuba, 25/08/2025

TEXT AND PHOTOS: Román Romero López
My uncle Rodolfo used to say that the sands of Playa Pilar were as fine as dust, so much so that it was impossible to hold them in a closed fist; and the waters, excessively clear, left the seabed exposed.
Sometimes the family looked at him in disbelief, guided by the logic of those who only knew beach resorts with black sand and dark colors.
That was many years ago, so long back that Playa Pilar was an untouched area, accessible only by sea and mainly for work reasons. In those distant times, my uncle would often go there, and, impressed, the countryman of few words but many stories would never stop recounting his experiences.
Obviously, he couldn’t describe the site with the mastery of the famous writer Ernest Hemingway, who traveled there during World War II in search of German submarines and on fishing trips.
Hemingway had a special fascination with the northern keys of Cuba, and Cayo Guillermo in particular; that is why he named Pilar beach after the yacht that allowed him to explore the waters of the Caribbean and served as a muse for part of his literary work.
In his novel Islands in the Stream, published in 1970, he described the beauty of these sites through the eyes of Thomas Hudson, his alter ego. It is possible to find direct references to this islet and Playa Pilar:
“‘It’s nice to wake up in the morning and steer with the sun behind you.’… They moved down the channel keeping a good lookout… They came in toward the line of green keys that showed like black hedges sticking up from the water and then acquired shape and greenness and finally sandy beaches…
“‘On the inside, gentlemen, is Guillermo. See how green she is and full of promise?’”
At first, I only had my uncle’s references, then I came across Hemingway’s, but nothing replaces personal impressions, which are not diminished with each encounter with this resort, currently dedicated to tourist activities that delight travelers from different latitudes, motivated by others who have preceded them or by the awarding of international awards that endorse the quality of an excellent natural environment.
Playa Pilar is a Caribbean paradise where nature displays its maximum expression of beauty and serenity, with the unparalleled quality and mesmerizing transparency of its waters, a color palette resembling a masterpiece dominated by intense turquoise and light blue tones that vary depending on the incidence of sunlight and the depth of the sea.
Where the water is shallower, it seems as if you are looking at the seabed through glass. Corals and a multitude of fish flourish, interacting in a vibrant ecosystem, ideal for snorkeling and diving. In deep areas, the blue becomes intense and vibrant.
Playa Pilar offers visitors the chance to enjoy a pleasant setting and climate, water sports, and catamaran rides that allow them to appreciate the perfection and charms of a coral reef extending just a few meters from the beach. It also provides easy access to Cayo Media Luna, the islet located directly opposite.
Also relaxing is walking along the coastline, as your feet sink into the wet sand, leaving footprints that are soon reclaimed by the waves, persistently trying to maintain the perfection of that relief.
And when the heat is stifling, a ranchón at the Palmares Extra-Hotel Branch invites guests to enjoy the most refreshing drinks and tropical fruit tastings, although there are always those who prefer to accentuate the effects of the high temperatures with a sip of the finest Cuban and international rums.
There’s something for everyone at this gastronomic establishment, with a team ready to satisfy every customer’s needs and offer the best smiles as an additional and distinctive ingredient of the service.
Thus, Playa Pilar is not only the charm of its natural setting, but also the courteous and attentive service of the staff, who strive every day to keep this place a favorite, while offering the most authentic Cuban experience, which remains unique and is confirmed by continuing to be one of the most attractive spots in the Jardines del Rey Archipelago.

